Let me introduce you to Tess, a London-based food & travel aficionado sharing her culinary experiences and her passion for food & travel via her blog Tess à Table. She has a special eye for detail and the pictures of her trip to Marrakech inspired me. We met two weeks ago in Berlin and it was great to listen to her stories, her passion for good food and some of her recommendations & tips on where to go & what to do in Marrakech, the city of 1001 nights.
MyRiveGauche: How come you named your blog Tess à Table?
Tess à Table: Growing up in Bangkok, my favourite time of the day was when I heard my mum or dad calling me: “Tess! à Table!”
My brother and I would scurry downstairs to the dining table. It’s a fervent ritual for the four of us to gather at dinner, not only sharing good meals but also stories of our day with the family. After school, no other moments are more anticipated than this precious "repas". I was fortunate to be born in a mixed culture: my dad, a Belgian who makes the best Béarnaise and has a knack for a variety of sauces, is the weekend cook; my Thai mum is the one who takes the helm of the kitchen. Hailing from the south of Thailand, she can come up with both fiery “Gaeng Som” and fancy European dishes. My taste buds have developed according to my parents’ appreciation for food and their passion for cooking.
Wherever I go, I’m always on the lookout for original and authentic places to eat – a penchant I had since my childhood in Bangkok, well known for a countless number of great eateries usually tucked away in nondescript areas. I started my Instagram Tess.a.Table whilst living in Paris, and now blog, as a platform and diary to share these places with all the people who have a keen appetite for travel and authentic cuisine as I do.
MyRiveGauche: Food seems to be constantly on your mind. What makes you so deeply passionate about it?
Tess à Table: I believe it brings people together. There is no greater joy than surrounding yourself with your loved ones and sharing a meal together. It's the starting point of conversations, ideas. The idea that a family meal is important was simply the way I was raised and so everything I know of love or food came from home.
MyRiveGauche: You grew up in Bangkok but moved to Amsterdam, Lausanne, New York, Paris and currently live in London. Which capital would you describe as your favourite “food destination”?
Tess à Table: That’s a tough question! I’ll have to be annoying and say I can’t pick a favourite food city. No city can satisfy my craving for street food as Bangkok, and their food courts are one of a kind. Lunch would not cost more than 60 Baht (1.5€) per person and you’re pretty full. I love New York for its open air markets, I used to go to the one in Union Square before my shift and I’ve just never seen such a variety of vegetables! And where else do you find a slice of pizza for $1?! Paris was the city I referred to Le Fooding 9 times out of 10 and eventually inspired me to start my Instagram account dedicated to food. London is just a cultural melting pot and the food scene definitely reflects that – but it comes at a high price! I also find it’s the capital with the most Thais and hence Thai food so I don’t feel too far from the taste of home. I never lived in Berlin but love going every now and then to see what’s new.
MyRiveGauche: What’s your favourite dish?
Tess à Table: Again, another question I can’t limit one response to! French fries, Thai noodles, homemade Italian king prawn spaghetti and ice cream would all be somewhere at the top of my list!
MyRiveGauche: Which restaurant inspired you most?
Tess à Table: I think Tickets in Barcelona really took what I’d consider “my favourite restaurant” to the next level. I’m not one to comment on Molecular Gastronomy but I’ll never forget the way the spherical olive burst melted in my mouth.
MyRiveGauche: You travel a lot and recently spent some time in the bustling city of Marrakech. Your pictures look amazing. You really have an eye for good perspectives. What time of the year were you there and why did you choose this destination?
Tess à Table: Thank you – although it wasn’t always easy to take photos of people in this city as they really don’t like it. I went in November for my birthday, a good period to go. I simply chose it because I had never been to Marrakech, let alone the continent and a 3 hours flight from London seemed perfect for some winter sun.
MyRiveGauche: Where did you stay?
Tess à Table: I initially wanted to stay at Riad Mena & Beyond, however it was fully booked that weekend. So I ended up staying at the Riad Goloboy, a simple yet charming Riad that had rooftop views over Mamounia Gardens – without paying the price! We also spent one night glamping in the Agafay desert, an hour trip away from Marakech. It was a breath of fresh air to escape the dust of the city for 24 hours! I think it really depends on what you are after but personally travelling on a shoestring – a Riad is a great way to feel the city and they are usually gems tucked far away from the main streets, but of course I’d love to try La Mamounia one day!
MyRiveGauche: Which places in Marrakech do you recommend to someone who has never been?
Tess à Table: For the first time, I think it’s nice to visit the main areas. My list of “bonnes adresses” would include (in no particular order):
Place Jemaa El Fna: Main square that we returned to again and again, especially at sundown and when we got lost in the souks.
Ben Youssef Medersa: Andalusian style Medersa that was a functioning school until 1960. Walk around the courtyard and up to the “cells” where apparently 900 school boys once cooked, ate & slept.
Koutoubia Mosque: For a leisurely stroll in their gardens behind.
Jardin Marjorelle: For a shade of blue you won’t find anywhere else and because this year marks the 60th anniversary of the garden being open to the public. Stop by the Marjorelle Boutique & Bookshop for postcards with prints designed by Yves Saint Laurent. The new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech (mYSLm) will also debut this fall.
On your way out, just opposite the garden you’ve got 33 Rue Marjorelle – browse through the boutique and cool down with a smoothie (think dates and rose water smoothies) from the Kaowa Café. And if you’ve still got the space – an ice cream to beat the heat.
Dar Cherifa: Literary café and art gallery set in a 15th century open air Riad. Great lunch spot (olives that come as a condiment covered in Moroccan spices) or to simply take a break from the hustle and bustle and sip on a mint tea.
Le Grand Café de la poste: Dating from 1925, one of the oldest buildings in Guéliz – ‘soft colonialism’ district between the new town & the medina. A must for lovers of colonial interiors and architecture.
Chateau Berbère: For carpets and cushion cases in the souks, if you can find it! 4, Rue Mouassine.
Les Bains des Marrakech: For a couples massage at the spa.
And if you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Marrakech without the distance required to reach the Sahara Desert – a night in the Agafay desert. As mentioned before, Terres des Etoiles remains an affordable camp lodge escape but if you don’t mind splurging a bit then Scarabeo Camp for the ultimate desert retreat. Laid-back hippy town of Essaouira is a two hours drive away for those who’ve got more time to explore.
To have a bite:
Insider info: Le Jardin, Café des épices & Nomad are all owned by two brothers.
Le Jardin: A break from the souks, an alfresco lunch spot for fresh salads or pigeon pastilla. Le Jardin has a license to sell alcohol (a rarity in the red city).
Café des épices: If you're hesitating, I’d pick Café des épices over Terrasse des épices, simply for the view over the square and service.
Nomad: For a romantic dinner overlooking the square at night. We went when chefs Oliver TJ & Toby Sadettan were doing a 4 day pop up.
Terrasse des épices: Relaxing spot for a sundowner.
Al Fassia: Run exclusively by women and recommended by our taxi right after visiting Le Jardin Marjorelle as it’s not too far.
MyRiveGauche: What attracted and inspired you most?
Tess à Table: From the moment we landed, it was first of all the air when we got out of the airport. It felt like going back in time to a city that never really took off. Donkeys are still used, and along with them, pedestrians and cars pretty much share the same road. Everywhere you walk it smells like rose water or orange blossom. They have the best mint tea. It’s hard not to fall under Marrakech’s charm.
MyRiveGauche: What have you taken with you from all the different cultures you encountered?
Tess à Table: I believe that food is a true reflection of each culture.
MyRiveGauche: Many thanks for sharing your personal impressions and recommendations from your trip to Marrakech. I'm looking forward to reading more about Tess à Table and your culinary adventures!
